FAQ

Chicks have very specific requirements during their early development. Heat is one of the biggest factors in keeping them healthy. They require a 95 degree temperature for the first week of their lives, then the temperature can decrease by 5 degrees each week.

They need to be kept somewhere free from drafts as this will constantly change the temperature in their brooder. The bathroom, a spare room, or even a warm laundry room works great! Stock tanks or Rubbermaid storage tubs make great temporary homes for chicks.

We don't recommend cardboard boxes because the chicks can peck through cardboard if left in it for long periods of time. Cardboard is also a fire hazard.

We always recommend pine shavings because they are soft and very absorbent. But most importantly, they keep you chicks from developing spraddle.

When on slick surfaces, like cardboard or newspaper, chicks can slip. After repeated injury, their legs and feet will point out to the sides, making walking and standing difficult or sometimes even impossible, without correction.

It's easier to prevent spraddle from happening than to treat it after it's happened.

You want to keep them under the heat lamp until they are almost fully feathered and have been acclimated to cooler temps by decreasing the brooder temp about 5 degrees per week. After they are fully feathered out (about 8-10 weeks), they can then be transferred outside. They may need a lamp or to be brought inside at night however, if the temps are below 30 degrees.

Chicks require warmth in the first few weeks of life (95 degrees the first week then decrease the temperature 5 degrees each week). However, after about 8-10 weeks, your chicks will be fully feathered out. At this point, they can be outside in temps as low as 30 degrees and a heater can be placed in their coop if the temperatures drop below that mark.

Ducklings under three weeks old cannot maintain their own body temperatures so it is essential that you keep them inside and under a heat source. At three weeks old, you will not need a heat lamp, and at about six weeks old, ducklings can live outside.

We recommend red bulbs for a few different reasons. First, the red light is less harsh than white on a chicken’s delicate eyes.

Also, while the red light provides the heat they need to regulate their body temperature, they can still differentiate between day and night with a red light. This helps them to grow properly.

Lastly, chicks are very attracted to the color red. They will peck at anything red until they destroy whatever it is (including a spot on another chick!). So, if you shade their entire world in red while they are chicks, they are less likely to pick on each other.

As often as possible! The cleaner the living environment, the healthier your chicks will be. They will also be less likely to get sick or contract diseases. We spot clean everyday but we recommend stripping out your entire brooder at least once a week.

Goslings and ducklings should be cleaned twice a day, everyday. They tend to play in their water and will completely soak the shavings surrounding their water.

Don’t forget to wash your hands after cleaning or handling any poultry!

If you provide your chicks with a safe spot to roost, along with food and water, they will naturally come back to that spot in the evening.

You can also train them by providing their daily treat (no more than 15% of the total diet) as the sun begins to set. As you give them a treat, use a signal noise (like a whistle or clicker) to call them. Then after you have let them out to roam, if you want to gather them up, repeat their 'treat signal' and they should come running!

Pasting is when a chick couldn't quite pass and it becomes dried on his backside, clogging its vent. It's very important to remove the paste because if your chick is unable to pass anything, it can become very sick and even perish if left untreated.

We recommend getting some warm water and a pair of rubber gloves and gently working it off the chick. The water will cause it to soften and will eventually come off.

Often times, poo simply becomes stuck to a chick’s down. While this is unsightly, it is not pasting. Pasting only happens when the vent becomes clogged. You can however choose to clean up the mess.

Yes! Our chicks are shipped to us once they are dry from hatching. They have not had any food or water since the time of hatching, and need the electrolytes to help rehydrate them.

Just a pinch in their water (the water should look like pale lemonade – you do not want your water to be electric yellow) helps keep them healthy. Do this for the first few weeks for your baby chicks, and on hot days for your adult chickens.

We recommend changing your chick’s water every day to prevent the water from getting slimy from sitting under the heat of the brooder.

We recommend a medicated feed to prevent an outbreak of coccidiosis in your chicks, which usually shows up in young chicks between 3-6 weeks of age. This disease is easily prevented by using a medicated starter feed. Once your birds are 7-8 weeks of age, you should be able to switch their food to a non-medicated starter feed.

To help your chicks reach their full potential, we recommend they stay on a starter feed for no less than 18 weeks.

Coccidiosis is a parasite that thrives in damp conditions. It can make your chicks very sick, very quickly and even lead to death if left untreated. This is a highly contagious disease, and it can destroy an entire flock within days. Symptoms include diarrhea (usually with blood), a lack of growth, lethargy, and decreased feed and water intake.

If you detect coccidiosis, provide some form of antibiotic in the water (such as Oxytetracycline) to ALL the birds, even if some don't look infected. If the chick won't drink on its own, you can "force feed" them using a small syringe and a cup of warm water with medication. Place one drop at a time on the side of the beak and the chick will drink it.

For the first several weeks we do NOT recommend feeding anything other than their starter feed. They need to be on a high protein feed in order to meet the demands of their growing bodies. Once they are fully established on their feed and are eating and growing well, then you can add the fun extras (like mealworms) to their diet. If you are going to feed extras, please remember:

• Always feed grit free choice separate when offering anything extra to their diet. This helps them digest and process their food.
• Avoid raw potatoes or avocados which contain harmful toxins for birds.
• Don't feed anything that is spoiled or rancid.

We carry 'All Flock' feeds that will meet your whole flocks nutritional needs. Naturewise or Country Feeds Layer 16% are also great choices for feeding both species.

Removing food at night (but NOT water) after the first week is a good way to limit the amount of food your chicks are eating so that they don’t get too big, too fast.